48 Hours In: Lucerne, Switzerland
Gruetzi wohl! That’s “Hello!” or “Greetings!” in Swiss-German. 30 miles from bustling Zurich, you’ll find the compact, central-Switzerland city of Lucerne. Settled between breathtaking mountains and the picturesque lake of the same name, Lucerne is just how you’d expect a Swiss fairytale village to look. We guarantee that once you’ve visited this quaint town with its beautiful architecture, stunning vistas, and fresh mountain air, you’ll be planning your next visit in no time. That’s why we’ve shared two 48-hour itineraries: one for your first time, and one for a return visit.
For Your First Time Visiting
Day 1: Morning
Shelter provided by the mountains and the serenity of the lake makes Lucerne an inherently calm place to be. Make the most of it by taking an early morning stroll across the Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke). From this vantage point cross the Reuss, a 102-mile river that runs from Lake Lucerne, and you’ll have a beautiful view of the lake itself and the Old Town. Built in 1365, the Chapel Bridge is the oldest wooden covered bridge in Europe and the world’s oldest surviving truss bridge. Take your time walking along - while there is a lot to see from the bridge itself, don’t miss out on the artwork waiting for you inside! Triangular paintings dating back to the 17th century depict events from Lucerne’s history and are found along the length of the bridge. Once you’re at the end of the bridge you’ll find yourself in Lucerne’s Old Town. Admire the beautifully preserved, ornately decorated buildings while wandering along the quaint cobblestone streets. There will be no shortage of photo opportunities here; some of the buildings in the Old Town date back to the Middle Ages! By now you’ve likely worked up an appetite, so treat yourself to a Swiss breakfast - a selection of bread, jams, cold meats, cheese, müesli, röschti (potato pancake), coffee, tea, and juice are standard fare.
Day 1: Afternoon
To get a beautiful bird’s eye view of Lucerne and to see some more history on display, make your way to the Schirmerturm tower after breakfast. Only an eight-minute walk from the Chapel Bridge itself, it will be a short jaunt from wherever you’ve decided to eat. The Schirmerturm tower dates back to 1420 and is your entrance point to a walkway along the Musegg—the Old City Wall. If you’re feeling up to it, you can choose to ascend the tower for an even better view of the city, the lake, and the mountains. Continue along the walkway and end at Wachturm, the publicly accessible watchtower. From here, you’ll need to make your way back to Schirmerturm to descend back to the Old Town.
Next, make the 15-minute walk or take a short taxi ride to the famed Lion Monument. The Dying Lion of Lucerne is one of the world’s most famous monuments. Carved out of natural rock in 1792, it commemorates the heroic deaths of the Swiss mercenaries at the Tuileries. Mark Twain said that the Lion of Lucerne is “the saddest and most moving piece of rock in the world.”
From here, on your way to lunch, be sure to make a stop at Hofkirche St. Leodegar, (the Church of St. Leodegar). As the main cathedral for the city, this Roman Catholic church’s spires are visible from almost anywhere in Lucerne and are some of the only surviving features of what was first a monastery dating back to the 8th century. In 1633 a fire ravaged much of the church and was rebuilt in 1645. Take a break for lunch or as the Swiss call it, Zmittag. In Switzerland, most people will eat a hot meal for lunch, often consisting of international fare. You’re sure to find something to suit any palate with many restaurants along the waterfront.
Day 1: Evening
Before dinner, take a break from the day’s adventures with a short rest at your hotel. Dinner, or Znacht, is usually similar to breakfast: a dish of cold meats, breads, and cheese. Sometimes the Swiss will add an egg to round out the meal, or a hot soup in the colder months. Though Lucerne is located in the German part of Switzerland, fondue can be found everywhere and is certainly worth sampling if this is the only Swiss destination on your rail vacation. This classic Swiss dish features a large pot of oil or cheese served with bread and/or meats and vegetables, and is perfect for fueling your evening excursion. After dinner around sunset, wrap up your evening by taking a cruise on Lake Lucerne. Many of the cruises around the iconic lake are at least an hour in length; more than enough time to enjoy the stunning panoramic views. Typically, you’ll be served a glass of wine, beer, or hot chocolate, so get cozy, relax, and reflect on your perfect first day in Lucerne while you enjoy the beautiful sights!
Day 2: Morning & Afternoon
Visiting the landmark peak of Mount Pilatus is a must-do on a visit to Lucerne. These are the Alps, after all! Most guided tours to Mount Pilatus start and end at the valley station, Kriens. With the option to choose between a cogwheel railway, an aerial cable car, or a panoramic gondola, there’s an exciting way for everyone to reach the summit of this famed mountain. Once you’re at the top, take plenty of time to soak in the fantastic views of the world below. There are many things to do at the summit, including hiking trails, flower trails, numerous lookout points, and multiple restaurants serving Swiss cuisine. Have lunch at the summit and enjoy a view that will stay with you for a lifetime.
Day 2: Evening
Round out your wonderful 48 hours in Lucerne by heading back into the city to buy some Swiss souvenirs. Known as the watchmaking capital of the world, Switzerland is the perfect place to splurge a little on a well-crafted timepiece. For a more epicurean-inspired choice, you can’t go wrong with some scrumptious Swiss chocolate. There are plenty of watch shops and chocolatiers, so take your time selecting your favorites to bring home. After you’ve procured your souvenirs, relax at one of the many bars or restaurants along the waterfront and watch the world go by.
If You've Been Before
If you’ve been to Lucerne before, you might wish for your return visit to coincide with one of the city’s acclaimed music festivals. Famed German composer Richard Wagner once lived in Lucerne, making it a natural choice for the Lucerne Festival, which has been held annually for nearly 80 years. The festival occurs every summer and typically runs for one month from August to September, featuring the world’s top classical orchestras, conductors, and musicians. A smaller piano festival from the same franchise runs for a week each November and features both jazz and classical music performances in concert halls all over the city.
Day 1: Morning
Having likely seen the Chapel Bridge on a previous visit to Lucerne, take this return as an opportunity to visit one of the city’s other wooden covered bridges, Spreuerbrücke, or the Spreuer Bridge. Like the Chapel Bridge, the Spreuer Bridge is decorated with paintings along the way. This time you’ll observe 17th century paintings depicting Danse-Macabre style artwork based on mortality and human existence. At the end of this walk, you’ll end up in the Mühlenplatz, a nice town square with many restaurants, cafes, picturesque murals, and a fountain. Find breakfast here and enjoy the view of the Reuss river while you eat.
Day 1: Afternoon
From Mühlenplatz, take a 15-minute walk or a seven-minute taxi ride to Gletschergarten— the Glacier Garden Museum. This fascinating local history museum features glacial potholes of epic proportions as evidence of the last ice age, and shows how Lucerne was once covered by glaciers. The museum exhibits fossils of palm leaves and mussels found in local rock formations, and (believe it or not) indicate that some 20 million years ago the area of Lucerne was a subtropical beach! If you wish to extend your visit, the museum also contains a century-old mirror maze inspired by the Alhambra. The Glacier Garden is more than 150 years old and provides a tranquil setting for a relaxing walk and a nice retreat for peace and quiet just outside of the city center. In the summer months, enjoy lunch in the park of Glacier Garden, or make your way back to the Old Town for a hot meal of local or international fare.
Day 1: Evening
If you’ve come for one of the music festivals, you’ll likely want a short break to rest back at your hotel after a busy day. Have dinner along the riverbank or the lakefront and make your way to your concert venue - the perfect way to wrap up an enjoyable day.
Day 2: Morning & Afternoon
If you’ve already visited Mount Pilatus, this time make a trip to Mount Rigi. After a quick breakfast in town, start this easily accessible day trip from Lucerne. Mount Rigi (with less rugged terrain) provides a completely different view of Lake Lucerne than Mount Pilatus! Take a cogwheel railway or an aerial cable car to the top (take the other on the way down) and enjoy the stunning views of the Swiss landscape below. With so many things to do, you’ll want to spend a large portion of your day taking it all in. Mount Rigi offers several hikes, look-out points, restaurants, a microbrewery, a rope park, and many wellness options (like mineral baths and a spa), so you’ll be spoiled for choice.
Day 2: Evening
Freshen up after a long day on Mount Rigi at your hotel and get a quick bite to eat before your second night at the music festival. If that’s not on your itinerary, spend your final evening in Lucerne with dinner at the Stadtkeller Musik-Restaurant. Known for their Swiss folklore shows and winter music concerts, immerse yourself in Swiss music, culture, customs and more - all while enjoying delicious local food and specially brewed Stadtkeller beer!
