Scenic Swiss Journeys - The Classics
Switzerland's scenic rail journeys are famous around the world. I got to see what all the fuss was about on a recent trip to Interlaken and Chur. Here's my pick of the best.
Golden Pass
The Golden Pass line may be described as “Switzerland Lite”, gently undulating hills and well-fed cows dot the landscape of this scenic line. It is worth opting for the panoramic services as opposed to the “classic” trains which have older and more charming rolling stock but offer a slightly more restricted view. The weather was superb on this trip, and as the altitude is relatively low you are unlikely to be affected by cloud cover, which can be the case on the Jungfrau and Bernina lines, which take in very high passes. A highlight on this route for me was Lake Brienz, given the temperatures outside I felt like jumping onto the platform and going for a swim!
Jungfraujoch
There is not a railway journey or, come to think of it, any experience which parallels in any way the experience of Europe’s highest railway, the Jungfraubahn. Starting at Interlaken, the wonderfully antiquated but pristine carriages meander through small and typically Swiss Bernese villages. Along the journey to the summit, you pass ski resorts; Grindelwald and Wengen are the prime examples. I did the journey in the summer, but I can imagine a winter wonderland greeting any would-be skier, taking the train to their chalets. The summit of the Jungfraubahn, at 11,000 feet, holds the record as Europe’s highest railway station and has a fascinating information centre with food and drinks available. If you are staying in Interlaken or have any time here, I would recommend a little known funicular railway called the Harder-Bahn. This offers spectacular views of the Eiger and Jungfrau peaks. The funicular can be found by looking to your right upon exiting the station (it is also signposted).
Glacier/Bernina Express
No rail-centric holiday to Switzerland is complete without a trip on the famous “Glacier Express and Bernina Express” panoramic services. I probably prefer the latter for the scenery; however, the Glacier Express is well worth the trip. Either way, there are a number of factors to consider when making a comparison between the two. I found the service onboard the Glacier Express far better than that of the Bernina. The main difference is that an à la carte menu is offered and served to your seat aboard the Glacier. The food is good, prepared on board by a team of highly trained chefs, and delivered with an impeccable level of service. The interior and furnishings of the Glacier Express are also better than the Bernina. I’m really nitpicking, however, as both trains offer a memorable journey and should be a vital component of any Swiss adventure. If you can’t make the journey on the panoramic trains, you can still travel the route using normal Swiss domestic services. My top tip for the Bernina Express route is to lean your head out of the window (something you can’t do on the actual Bernina Express), provided you keep an eye out for oncoming trains! Nobody told me off, and this refreshingly liberal approach to health and safety is a suitable welcome to the Italian cantons of Switzerland. As you glide through the elegant towns of Pontresina and Tirano, you feel a change of culture in the air.
